Authentic Italian Desserts Read online

  AUTHENTIC

  ITALIAN

  DESSERTS

  75 Traditional Favorites Made Easy

  ROSEMARY MOLLOY

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  Table of Contents

  About the Author

  Copyright Page

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  TO MY FAMILY, FRIENDS AND READERS, THANK YOU.

  INTRODUCTION

  I suppose you are thinking, with a name like Rosemary Molloy, what would she know about Italian desserts?

  Who would have thought that at the age of 29, I would meet my future husband at a church dance? Not only that, but that he would turn out to be Italian, and I would leave my home, my family, my friends, my job and my country to start a new life. Not me! And for sure no one who knew me. But, that is exactly what I did. I went from leading an independent life with a pretty good office job in downtown Toronto to picking olives, making wine and bottling my own tomato sauce in a small town outside Rome. I have to be honest—some days I saw it as a new adventure and other days I was down and homesick. The thought that I had made the biggest mistake of my life passed through my mind many times: Why didn’t I insist on staying in Canada? But now I thank my wonderful husband, who convinced me to give this Italian life another chance.

  My early years in Italy were not easy. Waiting for the mailman to see if someone had written, waiting for the weekly phone call from my mom—these were difficult times, but I was lucky to find allies in my mother-in-law and sister-in-law. Not only were they patient with my Italian (or, more specifically, my lack of it), but they also showed me how amazing true cucina casareccia (Italian home cooking) was. For the first time, I tasted tiramisu, homemade pasta, homemade wine and fresh vegetables just picked from the garden. I have always enjoyed cooking, but my enjoyment turned into a passion. And, with the encouragement of a very good friend, that passion became my blog, An Italian in my Kitchen. I love sharing authentic Italian cooking, especially if it’s on the sweet side.

  Italian cuisine is best known for lasagna, pizza and pasta—but believe me, there are so many baked goods just waiting to be discovered. And that is exactly what I hope you find in this cookbook, whether you have been to Italy, wish to visit Italy or are Italian (or not), I want to help you discover the sweet side of Italian cooking. Enjoy!

  DOLCI DEL MATTINO

  Breakfast Sweets

  If there was one thing I had to get used to when I moved to Italy, it was breakfast. Italians like to dunk everything in their morning caffè latte, and my husband is probably one of the guiltiest. He told me that nothing was ever wasted or thrown away in his home when he was growing up. Even dried bread was soaked in warm milk for breakfast, and if they were lucky, then they might find a homemade cake or a few biscotti. I don’t like dunking, but I do appreciate that Italians have what they call breakfast cakes. They are less moist than what we North Americans are used to, which makes them wonderful dunking cakes or the perfect companions to a morning coffee or tea.

  CIAMBELLA DEL MATTINO

  Morning Bundt Cake

  Makes 1 (9-inch [23-cm]) cake

  2 cups + 2 tbsp (218 g) all-purpose flour

  Pinch of salt

  1½ tsp (6 g) baking powder

  3 large eggs, at room temperature

  1⅓ cups (256 g) granulated sugar

  1 cup (240 ml) vegetable oil

  1 tsp vanilla extract

  ¾ cup + 2 tbsp (210 ml) milk

  1½ tbsp (11 g) unsweetened cocoa powder

  Powdered sugar (optional)

  This easy Bundt cake has become one of my go-to cakes whenever we have a craving for breakfast cake. It goes perfectly with a cup of coffee or latte. I have even served it for dessert when company was coming—serve it with a scoop of ice cream and it’s perfect. It is so simple to make and the addition of cocoa gives it a subtle chocolate undertone.

  Preheat the oven to 350°F (177°C), then grease and flour a 9-inch (23-cm) Bundt pan.

  In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, salt and baking powder.

  In a large bowl, beat the eggs and granulated sugar for approximately 5 minutes, until light and fluffy. Slowly add the vegetable oil and vanilla, beating to combine. Then, add the flour mixture a little at a time, beating between additions. Add the milk and beat to combine. Pour two-thirds of the cake batter into the prepared pan. Add the cocoa powder to the remaining one-third of the batter and stir until well combined. Spoon the cocoa batter on top of the plain batter and swirl lightly with the tip of a knife. Bake for approximately 50 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Let the cake cool completely and dust it with powdered sugar (if using) before serving.

  ROTOLO ALLA MARMELLATA

  Jam Roll Cake

  Makes 1 (10-inch [25-cm]) roll cake

  ½ cup + 1 tbsp (56 g) all-purpose flour

  ¾ tsp (3 g) baking powder

  4 eggs, separated

  ¼ cup + 2½ tbsp (78 g) granulated sugar

  ¼ cup (33 g) powdered sugar, plus more for dusting

  ½ to ¾ cup (110 to 165 g) homemade or store-bought jam

  I always thought roll cakes were a bit intimidating, but this cake bakes and rolls very easily. It has a delicious, delicate flavor, and you can change it up every time with a different jam filling, which means it doesn’t have to just be for breakfast.

  Preheat the oven to 350°F (177°C), then line a 10 x 14-inch (25 x 35-cm) baking sheet with parchment paper.

  In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour and baking powder.

  In another medium bowl, beat the egg whites until they are stiff.

  In a large bowl, beat the egg yolks and granulated sugar until light and fluffy, approximately 5 minutes, then add the flour mixture a little at a time, beating on low to combine. Gently fold in the egg whites until well combined.

  Pour the cake batter onto the prepared baking sheet and spread it out evenly with a spatula. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the cake springs back when lightly touched in the center.

  Remove the cake from the oven and immediately turn it upside down on a clean kitchen tea towel that has been dusted with the powdered sugar. Gently remove the parchment paper. Starting with the short side of the cake, roll up the warm cake and towel together into a pinwheel. Let the cake cool completely on a wire rack, then unroll it carefully and spread the jam on top. Roll the cake back up, place it on a serving plate and dust it with additional powdered sugar before serving.

  BISCOTTI DELLA PRIMA COLAZIONE

  Italian Breakfast Cookies

  Makes approximately 21 cookies

  2¼ cups + 1 tbsp (231 g) all-purpose flour

  Pinch of salt

  2 tsp (8 g) baking powder

  1 egg, removed from the refrigerator 30 minutes before using

  ¾ cup (144 g) granulated sugar, plus more for rolling

  ¼ cup (60 ml) milk, removed from the refrigerator 30 minutes before using

  ¼ cup (60 ml) vegetable oil

  ½ tsp vanilla extract

  I first tried one of these cookies at a friend’s house.
I was thrilled to know cake was a favorite in Italian homes, but I was elated to know they loved cookies, too! These cookies are not very sweet; they are crunchy, light and go perfectly with a big cup of tea or coffee.

  Preheat the oven to 350°F (177°C) and line 2 (10 x 14-inch [25 x 35-cm]) baking sheets with parchment paper.

  In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, salt and baking powder.

  In another medium bowl, beat together the egg and sugar until light and frothy, approximately 5 minutes. Add the milk, oil and vanilla and continue to beat until combined. Stirring gently with a wooden spoon, gradually add the flour mixture.

  Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead gently until the dough comes together. The dough should be a little sticky, so make sure not to over-flour the work surface.

  Break off pieces of dough and using the palm of your hand, form them into oblong shapes approximately 2 to 2½ x ¾ inches (5 to 6 cm x 19 mm) in size. Roll the dough pieces in the additional sugar and place them on the baking sheets (sprinkle a little extra sugar on top if desired). Bake for approximately 15 minutes. Let the cookies cool completely before serving.

  SAVOIARDI FATTI IN CASA

  Homemade Savoiardi

  Makes approximately 15 cookies

  2 medium eggs, separated

  ¼ cup (48 g) granulated sugar, plus more for sprinkling

  ½ cup + 2 tbsp (62 g) all-purpose flour

  ½ tsp baking powder

  1 tbsp (9 g) cornstarch

  Most people now make a tiramisu with savoiardi biscuits; I always used to buy these cookies until I tried making them myself. They are so easy and so good! This recipe makes a light cookie that is the best addition to a lazy weekend morning or your favorite tiramisu recipe.

  Preheat the oven to 350°F (177°C), and line a 10 x 14-inch (25 x 35-cm) baking sheet with parchment paper.

  In a medium bowl, combine the egg yolks and sugar, and beat on medium speed for 15 minutes.

  In another medium bowl, beat the egg whites until they are stiff. Then, gently fold the egg whites into the egg yolks.

  In a small bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder and cornstarch. Fold the flour mixture gently into the egg mixture a little at a time until completely combined.

  Spoon the batter into a pastry bag fitted with a large round tip and form 1½-inch (3-cm) long sticks on the baking sheet, spacing them about 2 inches (5 cm) apart. Sprinkle the cookies with some additional sugar and bake for 10 to 12 minutes, or until golden. Let the cookies cool completely before serving or using in a dessert.

  TORTA AL CIOCCOLATO SOFFICE

  Simple Chocolate Cake

  Makes 1 (9-inch [23-cm]) Bundt cake

  1¼ cups + 1 tbsp (119 g) cake flour

  ¼ cup (28 g) unsweetened cocoa powder

  ¾ cup + 1 tbsp (156 g) granulated sugar

  1½ tsp (6 g) baking powder

  Pinch of salt

  ½ cup (120 ml) vegetable oil

  2 eggs, at room temperature

  ¾ cup + 1 tbsp (195 ml) milk

  1 tsp vanilla extract

  Melted chocolate or powdered sugar, for serving

  It was a dream come true when I discovered Italians liked a slice of cake for breakfast. And cake for breakfast gets even better when it’s chocolate. This chocolate cake is the perfect breakfast or snack cake. You could even make it fancy by drizzling it with a simple chocolate glaze like I do.

  Preheat the oven to 350°F (177°C), then grease and flour a 9-inch (23-cm) Bundt pan.

  In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, cocoa, powdered sugar, baking powder and salt.

  In a medium bowl, whisk together the oil, eggs and milk. Then, add the vanilla.

  Pour the oil mixture into the flour mixture and stir with a wooden spoon until the batter is well combined. Pour the batter into the Bundt pan and bake for approximately 30 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.

  Let the cake cool completely before drizzling it with melted chocolate or dusting it with powdered sugar.

  GIRELLE ALLA MARMELLATA

  Jam Buns

  Makes approximately 10 buns

  ¾ cup + 1 tbsp (75 ml) lukewarm milk, plus more for brushing

  1¼ tsp (4 g) active dry yeast

  1¾ cups (175 g) all-purpose flour

  3½ tbsp (42 g) granulated sugar

  1 egg

  3½ tbsp (49 g) butter

  Pinch of salt

  Zest of 1 lemon

  ¼ to ½ cup (55 to 110 g) jam

  When I lived in Canada, I was used to cereal or the occasional eggs and bacon for breakfast. But, when I came to Italy, I had to get used to a croissant or a slice of cake or even a cookie or two. To tell the truth, I got used to it quite quickly. And then I discovered these wonderful yeast buns rolled with jam. This recipe is an easy yeast bread and is not too sweet—so good with a cup of coffee.

  In a small bowl, combine the milk and yeast; let the mixture sit for 5 minutes, then stir to combine.

  In a stand mixer fitted with the hook attachment, combine the flour, milk mixture and sugar; mix to combine. Add the egg and mix for 5 minutes on medium-low speed. Add the butter and mix until combined. Add the salt and lemon zest and continue beating on medium-low speed until the dough is thoroughly combined and smooth, approximately 7 minutes. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl, and cover it with plastic wrap and a large kitchen towel; let the dough rise in a warm, draft-free area until it has doubled in size, approximately 2 hours.

  Uncover the dough, reserving the plastic wrap and kitchen towel. Line a 10 x 14-inch (25 x 35-cm) baking sheet with parchment paper.

  Remove the dough from the bowl and roll it into a rectangle approximately 12 to 14 inches (30 to 35 cm) long. Spread the jam over the top of the dough within ½ inch (13 mm) of the edges. Roll up the dough and slice it into ¾-inch (19-mm) buns. Place the buns on the baking sheet, cover the baking sheet with the plastic wrap and kitchen towel and let the buns rise for another 2 hours.

  Preheat the oven to 350°F (177°C).

  Brush the buns with the additional milk and bake for 20 to 30 minutes, or until golden. Let the rolls cool or eat them warm.

  PAN GOCCIOLI

  Chocolate Chip Buns

  Makes 6 to 7 buns

  1 tsp active dry yeast

  ½ cup (120 ml) lukewarm milk

  ¼ cup + 1 tsp (52 g) granulated sugar, divided

  1⅔ cups (160 g) all-purpose flour

  1 egg

  2 tbsp (28 g) butter

  ½ cup (90 g) mini chocolate chips, frozen for 30 minutes

  1 egg yolk

  1 tbsp (15 ml) milk

  My daughter goes crazy for these soft yeast buns full of mini chocolate chips. These are another breakfast treat that are quite easy to make. I have become very fond of making yeast breads; I find the smell of bread baking in the oven very comforting, especially during the fall months.

  To make the buns, combine the yeast, milk and ½ teaspoon of the sugar in a small bowl; let this mixture sit for 5 minutes, then stir to combine.

  In a stand mixer fitted with the hook attachment, combine the yeast mixture, flour, egg, butter and ¼ cup (48 g) of the sugar. Mix on medium-low speed for approximately 15 minutes, or until the dough is smooth. Halfway through, stop the machine, clean the bowl and hook with a spatula.

  Once the dough is smooth, add the chocolate chips and mix again just until combined, approximately 1 minute. Transfer the dough to a lightly greased bowl, cover the bowl with plastic wrap and a clean kitchen towel and let the dough rise in a warm, draft-free area for 2 to 3 hours, or until it has doubled in size.

  Line a 10 x 14-inch (25 x 35-cm) baking sheet with parchment paper.

  Remove the dough from the bowl and divide it into 6 to 7 balls. Place the balls on the baking sheet and cover with the plastic wrap and kitchen towel. Let the buns rise for 1 hour.

  Preheat the oven to 350°F (177°C).

  To make the egg wash,
whisk together the egg yolk and milk in a small bowl.

  Brush the buns with the egg wash and bake them for 20 to 25 minutes, or until golden. Serve the buns warm or at room temperature.

  TORTE

  Cakes

  To tell the truth, when I first moved to Italy, I couldn’t figure out why cakes were rarely frosted. I loved frosting. Of course, as time went by, I discovered new and wonderful cakes, made with fruit or nuts or berries—but rarely was a frosting employed. Most Italian cakes are presented with a simple dusting of powdered sugar. Believe me, that is all these wonderful cakes need!

  TORTA DI PERE

  Pear Cake

  Makes 1 (8- or 9-inch [20- or 23-cm]) cake

  2 medium Bartlett or Anjou pears

  1½ cups (150 g) all-purpose flour

  ¼ tsp salt

  ¼ cup + 1½ tbsp (52 g) cornstarch

  1½ tsp (6 g) baking powder

  ¼ tsp baking soda

  3 large eggs

  ¾ cup + 2 tbsp (168 g) granulated sugar, divided

  ([0-9]+) cup (241 g) mascarpone cheese

  2½ tbsp (38 ml) vegetable oil

  Powdered sugar, for dusting (optional)

  If my family and friends had to pick their favorite Italian cake, this pear cake would be it. We used to have a pear tree, and every year when those pears were almost ripe I would start hearing, “Ma, isn’t it time for your pear cake?” Even though we no longer have that pear tree, it doesn’t stop me from making this easy, anytime cake.